The forest and woodlands served as inspiration for Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s Fall collection for Kenzo, staged in a massive warehouse on the Périphérique, bordering the suburbs of Paris. The models were ready to survive and tough it out in the concrete jungle with loads of layers, anoraks, ponchos, and cozy, yet stylish outerwear.
Shawls were a source of warmth in both electric hues and functional black, while knit hooded ponchos with fringe detailing felt quite bohemian when paired with printed maxi skirts with handkerchief hems. Leather and python platform booties anchored the looks — just the things needed to stomp the sidewalk and any other terrain the Kenzo woman might find herself traversing come Fall.
Roomy shearling jackets were cast over breezy chiffon frocks for the requisite blanketing needed for the season, as well as a snuggled down mix of textures. Florals burst through on pleated numbers, athletic-inspired contrast stripe trousers, and skirted pants.
Structure emerged by way of menswear-inspired suiting and expertly-tailored blazers. Colorful stripes added to the methodical and controlled vibe.
The world is a stage for Kenzo and the duo did not disappoint this time around, constructing a setting of seven enormous blocks that continually unfolded and moved smoothly down the runway — seemingly directed by some unseen being or force. As always, the scene was optically alluring and thought-provoking, but it diverted attention away from the main pieces at hand — the actual ready-to-wear. Fortunately, it also sparked an examination into how the brand’s woodsy prints and survival-ready designs measure up with our shared fixation with all things tech: a really poignant and important issue that we hope Lim and Leon will continue to address down the line.
Thoughts on the latest from Kenzo?
Images: Style.com
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