Wednesday 4 March 2015

Jacquemus Fall 2015.

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This is a huge week for Simon Porte Jacquemus as he has made it through the semifinal round of the LVMH Prize short list, after making it as a finalist last year. He also just debuted his Fall 2015 collection and it certainly made its mark, with designs set to dismantle the idea of what’s wearable and traditional in fashion and an obvious nod to the Surrealist movement.

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From the onset, it was clear that Jacquemus’s aim wasn’t to create a collection solely for financial gain: the likes of which we rarely see during any fashion week in any city. The young French designer has just been on this earth a little over two decades and the sense of youthfulness was evident, especially in the models’ bare feet.. He also never completed design school, thus a rule-breaking sensibility was apparent — the kind that makes a runway presentation exciting and memorable.
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Jacquemus was inspired by the impulsive and unpremeditated sensation of adolescence and he sought out to reclaim that with strangely assembled clothing and styling that sometimes seemed accidental. A swatch of cozy fur was haphazardly strewn across a collarless white button-front shirt with asymmetric hems, while bare hipbones were exposed through the feminine tied sides of mixed texture mini skirts.
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If the emotions arisen here feel similar to something you’ve experienced before, it might be due to Jacquemus’s history with Comme des Garcons — the iconic brand with which he honed his skills. The awry nature of a one-shoulder army green dress held up with a contrast strap and spilling into a fringed bottom layered over leggings felt very much like Rei Kawakubo, while a pieced colorblock blouse with an asymmetric sleeve seemed like a new iteration of the designer’s outrageous wares.
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Many of the looks were completely NSFW (as is known to happen quite often during Paris Fashion Week), with models strutting down the catwalk topless. The first look out was comprised of a paper mask covering the mannequin’s face, a light outline of a tank though her bare bust was exposed, and a pair of high-waist, totally inflexible trousers that practically stood on their own — unwearable and impractical in every way possible but definitely the kind of ensemble that leaves a lasting impression.
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There was certainly a lot of work put into this collection and at times, the looks felt a bit unfinished. Jacquemus succeeded without a doubt with the ensembles that surmounted the absurdity and superfluousness: a black collarless wool coat with a v-neckline and contrast grommet and tie strap, a two-tone ruched mini dress, grommet-accented trousers, and a cozy olive turtleneck. There is a developed and mature designer behind all of the madness and hopefully that is the Jacquemus we see more of next season.
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What do you think of Jacquemus’s Fall collection?

Images: Style.com

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