If you don’t know much about Anthony Vaccarello, know this: he is the
Belgian-Italian fashion designer behind countless red carpet looks for
celebrities, such as Diane Kruger, Ciara, Nicole Richie, and Kelly
Rowland. Plus, he was recently named creative director of Versus Versace
(and took his first solo bow for the brand 11 days ago), so expect to
see his sexy, celebrity-admired aesthetic even more exemplified moving
forward. Vaccarello’s Spring 2016 RTW Collection brought its fair share of understated ‘va-va-voom’ and its oft-expected leg-baring, asymmetric silhouettes.
There was a militaristic edge to the mixed media jackets, oversized
metal detailing, and structured suiting. Models were strong,
self-assured, and dare I say again … quite comfortable. Perhaps gone are
the days of super tight, overtly sexy ensembles? High slit skirts were
still present, but styled with a sheer and patterned long-sleeved top.
The dresses with high slits were almost longer or had a higher collar,
so as to give the illusion of being more covered up than exposed.
It wouldn’t be a Vaccarello show if not for some graphic element.
Vaccarello had experimented with graphic text overlay on fabric in
previous shows, but this time he opted for an artistic rendering of
model Anya Rubik‘s
face on a number of pieces, including varied dresses and tops. The
rendering was not printed, but actually beaded onto the fabric and it
had a compelling effect on the runway.
Notable additions to this show were his emphasis on denim and his
very first bags; both are important components to a collection as they
can often be offered at a more accessible price point for
consumers. The denim was mostly high-waisted, form-fitting, and featured
metal enclosures at the ankle. The bags ranged from a black leather
clutch to a few cross-body styles. Some of my must-have pieces were the
grey and black skirts and dresses worn by Binx Walton and Jamie Bochert,
in particular. These asymmetric looks were equally sultry and
effortless.
Curious about how things looked backstage? Here are my favorite exclusive behind-the-scenes shots from photographer Freddie Rankin:
In all, Anthony Vaccarello seems to be growing with his female
consumer, offering her all the seductive elements of dressing with the
ease of experience.
Thoughts on Anthony Vaccarello’s Spring 2016 RTW Collection?
Sources: Vogue.com, Freddie Rankin
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