Salvatore Ferragamo Fall 2015.

Italian designers have an almost innate flair for extravagance.  From gowns bedecked with crystals and gemstones to pieces with an overflow of prints and vivid colors, “more is more” is an adage that hasn’t failed many successful Italian luxury brands.  However, Massimiliano Giornetti’s almost deliberate defection from the status quo is usually the driving force behind his collections for Ferragamo.  The pomp and circumstance was stripped away, but Ferragamo’s fall assortment was not devoid of excitement, nor attention to detail.



Collections of yore have always focused on two things: how functional and wearable pieces are often factors that play a major role in a brand’s success.  This season, Ferragamo executed that approach perfectly with an onslaught of capes.  Whether cropped or billowing closely to the ground, the aim to stay warm AND look chic is actually closer to attaining than we think.


Like many designers, the nod to menswear influences was obvious.  But Giornetti’s tailoring and silhouettes injected a dose or two of feminine flair.  Though the slightly masculine construction was literal, skin was shown where it needed to be shown.  A peek of the decolletage and legs to showcase a little sex appeal balanced out such strong tailoring in this segment.  Jackets with broad lapels and dresses were elevated with large buttons and precise pops of red near hems and collars.


 Though his color palettes is usually parred down with each season (in Spring, he used almost all nudes and whites), bursts of red and yellow danced their way down printed dresses and coats.  The patterns could perhaps allude to a secret adoration for precision and geometry, given the careful placement of every square on a coat and every triangle on a dress.  While hues were season appropriate, warmer tones can be uplifting if you use colors properly, but with a little imagination, as Giornetti executed.


 Fabric play was definitely on the menu for Giornetti this season.  High waisted pleated skirts flounced down the runway in wool and leather.  Textures that are pretty much everyday staples for most during the wintry months got a much needed upgrade in this vein, not to mention the eye-catching belts that cinched the waist.
  

Sex appeal wasn’t completely off the table as a few of the looks offered just enough with slinky crochet knit options.




All-in-all, Giornetti’s assortment for this season of Ferragamo was a clear indication that he understands that a woman’s needs should match a woman’s wants.  The clothes, though beautiful, still served their purpose.  Comfort, function, precision and wearability were at the helm of this collection, but people the likes of Nicki Minaj would look fabulous in a printed coat.  And Solange or Kerry Washington would be striking in the green leather pleated dress.  It just goes to show that a functional piece doesn’t always have to be boring, and shouldn’t be sacrificed when trying to make a sartorial statement.
 What say you to Ferragamo’s latest?

Photos: Style.com