Peter Copping is said to be taking up a lead design post at Oscar de la Renta, making his Spring designs for Nina Ricci a delightful farewell. After five years at the French fashion house, he has an incredible understanding and awareness of Ricci’s signature delicacy and touch, which has proved to be the perfect mélange with his own graceful aeshetic.
with his
own graceful aeshetic.
The show began with a sand-hued cotton jacket that exposed as much collarbone as it could, paired with a rosy pink double-face crepe knee-length skirt with yellow lining and sultry slits: slightly ’40s-inspired and a demonstration of the collection’s inspiration which was influenced by Parisian fashions after World War II.
“Make Do and Mend” was the assortment’s title, but there wasn’t a crumb of that “Do It Yourself” spirit here. Though hems were at times undone and unfinished threads reared their heads here and there, it was all intentional and extremely well executed. The hem of a tweed, knee-length skirt was left unwound into tons of miniature sequins: undeniably Copping.
That handcrafted touch pervaded the offerings with petal embroidery turned inside out on a short sleeve, knee-length dress, crinkled silk duchesse for a touch of feminine imperfection, exposed buttons that were left undone to form sexy slits, and snaps in asymmetric formations. Acute attention to the female form was paid with skinny leather belts cinching the waist of form-fitting collared dresses, sleeveless brightly-hued numbers, functional knits, and tiered flirty frocks.
Some of the simplest looks in the lineup were the prettiest of all: a contrast pink lapel collar that matched an easy dress’s lining, a sleeveless vest coupled with a slit-detailed skirt, a leather belted frock, and an orange topper anchored with a high-waist leather pencil skirt. A navy suit was conservative and harked back to that ’40s inspiration, while a hot pink seamed number on Malaika Firth was simultaneously come hither and timeless.
Copping broke away from the traditional Ricci eveningwear model, putting sultry dresses in its place. A completely transparent black lace number left almost nothing to the imagination, a LBD was uplifted with a floral lace inset and thigh-baring slit, a ruffle-detailed halter gown was flamenco-inspired, and a simple, white tuxedo dress could be given all new life with statement-making accoutrements. A vaguely sheer design skewed edgy with monotone embellishment and mesh detailing, while a white tiered number with a waterfall hem was distinctly bridal. A frothy lace design bought into fashion’s current “dare to bare” trend and the closing gown featured a sheer midriff — irresistible in its simplicity.
The collection was composed and elegant: the perfect farewell for Copping with a bright opening of what’s to come from the designer.
Thoughts on the latest from Nina Ricci?
No comments:
Post a Comment