The Dries van Noten show helped get Paris Fashion Week started off to
quite a bumpy start when fan of the brand Kanye West turned up at the
showing only to be referred to as just Kim Kardashian’s husband by the New York Times.
But that (and “Kanyetta’s” new do) aside, Noten’s forest inspired,
collection was a strong 57 look showing from the designer, fresh off of
his first-ever retrospective “Dries Van Noten – Inspirations” at Les
Arts Decoratifs in Paris.
The silhouette of the collection was a layered, relaxed one. Sagging blouses, roomy dresses and menswear inspired pieces came with the same ease and sophistication Dries has become known for. Here and there, fabric came gathered at the waist, courtesy of the odd belt normally on any number of the lineup’s beautiful coats but otherwise, the Belgian routinely ignored the waist entirely. He opted instead for hanging trousers low on the hip, elongating the torso and putting much of it on display when paired with bandeau tops.
Of course if we were to stop there, we would be ignoring the most prominent component of the collection: the prints. The visual play of any Dries Van Noten presentation is normally in the fabrications and for this offering the designer lost himself in some mossy green wonderland of fairytales if his fabrications are any indication. Satin panels on coats, jacquard dresses and silk striped trousers make lasting impressions on the eyes. Sequined tops and intricate embroiders add unmistakeable verve to an already outstanding curation that teeters on the edge of too much, but is tamed by Noten’s deft hand.
For this writer’s favorites, look to those slitty pieces like an oversized top of green, gold and black or the sequined sleeveless option of purple, brown and black. The wrapped, shell like bottom of the latter, matched with jacquard trousers that have a matching wrap around the waist — almost sarong-like in nature — before tapering down around the legs, show just why Noten is the designer he is today.
Photos by Style.com
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