Anna Molinari has an unabashed love for romance, thus her Spring collection for Blumarine exuded that tender sentiment with multi-hued floral appliqués and embroidery (befitting of the season and the assortment’s title “In Bloom”) and figure-skimming dresses accented by amorous tulle. Flowers have long been a cornerstone of the brand, but they were controlled and artistic here.
Molinari did away with all the fuss and superfluity of past collections that often steeped the designs in kitschy vintage territory for looks that were clean, modern, and light. High-waist mini skirts were simple yet functional, while flirty floral frocks could easily double as both a dress and tunic.
The restraint came in the form of a blush pink coat with floral embroidery and mesh detailing, a short-sleeve dress with a keyhole neckline and flower patterned sleeve hems, a white collarless cotton blouse and black mini skirt combination, and an LBD given a pop with contrast embroidered sleeves. This was wasn’t minimalism by any means, but was as subdued as the Blumarine aesthetic gets.
The paintings of French Nouveau Réalistes artist Martial Raysse served as inspiration for Molinari and art truly did blend with real life on a white high-waist skirt with black vine embroidery that hung languidly off its hem, 3D floral motifs that seemed to jump from the dresses on display, and petals that switched from embroidery to palpable flutters.
Legs were on display as not a trouser was in sight. This was coupled with the collection’s overall transparency: sheer tulle short-sleeve tops, the models’ most private parts hidden only by floral embroidery, a button-front frock that felt more cover-up than party-ready, and plunging necklines. A leather embroidered, see-through stripe number skewed equally edgy and feminine, while a delicate calf-length piece on Cindy Bruna left veritably nothing to the imagination.
Luminous, youthful, charming: all perfectly apt for the collection at hand. Though the assortment did have its share of bare bosoms and diaphanous fabrics and didn’t quite lend itself to a great deal of functionality, it could be appreciated for its beauty and decorative spirit — sure to delight the daring celebrity set at the very least.
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Images: Style.com
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